Metal Files for repairs-- have many, get cheap

[konomonose]

OpSec's corn cob wipe butt wipe post and my reply reminded me of one of my favorite and often overlooked prep topics: files. I saw a junk shop yesterday with files for a buck apiece. probably would have accepted less for the lot. used files can be found cheap at yard sales, junk shops, thrift shops, flea markets, etc. metal files can be regrooved, albeit roughly with a hacksaw blade, another oft overlooked prep item. Files of all sizes and types can be used for the obvious quick/rough sharpening of axes, machetes, bush axes, etc, but also repointing screwdrivers(both flat and philips), hammer claws, nail pullers, crow bars, shovels, saw blades( 2 man, chain, cross-cut, rip, ) etc. bayonets, wooden spears and punji stakes, too. Good barter item, too or barter service, tool repair and sharpening.

Furthermore, save all broken axe, hammer, sledgehammer, shovel, etc handles that break, they can be FILED to fit several times before they are reduced to kindling. Save and reuse the handle wedges, too, but "cut" nails work well in a pinch. To get the old handle out of the head, a fire will work, but may screw up the metals "temper," the easy way is support the toolhead between 2 pieces of wood like 2x4, 4x4, etc and from what is now the broken handle side(non wedged side) tap the broken through with a piece of rebar, RR spike, etc and a sledgehammer, whatever size works for your situation. Before doing this cut the broken handle head off flush with then tool head.

Eventhough it seems counter intuitive, to set the tool head on the handle once it is started( try the same way as knocking the old broken cuttoff handle out), hold or have held the tool being repaired handle up, near the top, tool head down AND in the air and hit the end of the handle with a small sledge hammer and the head of the tool being repaired will actually work its way tighter until the end of the handle is through the tool head and/or you see wood curlies forming on the long end of the handle at its junction with the tool head, then use your handle wedge. Boots are a good idea, and be careful of wild swings, a small sledge whack to the hand or wrist HURTS, speaking from exp here.
 
Do not forget a "file card" (wire brush) too clean out the debris from the teeth of the file to keep the file useful for years. at the end of a files life as a file, people make nice knife blades, I guess with a grinder in quick grinds so as not to overheat the metal and kill its temper.

hope you find this useful

[opsec]

Very handy to know. I have a few files on hand to sharpen my axes with along with my puck stone. I didn't know about the file card. That's on the get list next time I make it to Ace hardware. What kind of files do you reccommend and for what purposes? I just have 3 medium size mill-bastard files for sharpening.

[AndrewG]

I'm really gonna miss my grinder though. On my truck I have a bag of non powered "survival tools" that include files, rasps (like a file but gets the job done quicker if your material is wood) a couple of retractable utility knives with and extra hundred pack of blades, duct tape, nylon zip ties (worth their weight in GOLD in the field) and a few other things that I can't think of because it's not in front of me.

[konomonose]

Very handy to know. I have a few files on hand to sharpen my axes with along with my puck stone. I didn't know about the file card. That's on the get list next time I make it to Ace hardware. What kind of files do you reccommend and for what purposes? I just have 3 medium size mill-bastard files for sharpening.

Any type, all shapes ( do not forget round aka rattail and triangular-- both come in handy for chain saw and other saw blades) all sizes from tiny (like locksmith kind) to large( like the kind ferriers use for horses' hooves); generally 50 cents to a buck used,  maybe a bit more for the larger sizes. definitely nice to have some toothy rasp files to really take down excess wood on a handle fast and some coarse bastard files for initial/ rough work on metal and finer work on wood. Personally, i don't think you can have too many.  I prob have 100 to 125 files virtually all used; I am a total packrat/urban hoarder; it drives my wife crazy now, but when tshtf I can say told you so.

[opsec]

What kinds of files are best for what kind of applications. I bought the mill bastard for use on metal. There must be more to the secret life of files than that.

[konomonose]

What kinds of files are best for what kind of applications. I bought the mill bastard for use on metal. There must be more to the secret life of files than that.

I just use what looks right; finer teeth(smaller/shallower grooves for finer metal work), bigger but still small grooves for rough metal work, raspy teeth ( you will know when you see them -- they look like rats' teeth) for making quick work of wood, likewise for ferrier/horse hoof files-- they will work well on wood as they have big far apart deep grooves( these files are 18-20" long and do not have a pointed end to stick in the file handle/corncob handle). Other than that, I can't be of any further help.  Just load up on any cheap/used files; you might get more info from a tool guy at the hardware store or online elsewhere. Hope this sheds some light verbally; just looking at the various files, you will see and KNOW what to use.

[Ryder]

As far as what file works for what job....Take your file and try it out. That is file something to fit. You will become aware of what you need a rough file for and why you need that fine file for finish work. Also pick up a thread file. It is calibrated in standard threads per inch and can clean up threads on small to large threaded bolts. This is different than taps and dies which have to be the exact diameter and threads per inch. One four sided thread file with a different four pitches on the other end can fit a whole bunch of bolts. They come in metric and inch.

[offdalip]

Also pick up a thread file. It is calibrated in standard threads per inch and can clean up threads on small to large threaded bolts. This is different than taps and dies which have to be the exact diameter and threads per inch. One four sided thread file with a different four pitches on the other end can fit a whole bunch of bolts. They come in metric and inch

Why don't you just pick up a tap and die set? Alot easier by far less work, plus you make sure the other end where the bolt screws into matches purfectly

[Ryder]

Tap and die sets are expensive if you get a quality set. And if you need to fix the threads on a inch and a half diameter axle you probably don't have that size die in you craftsman kit. I am thinking of adapting those storage units (cars and vans) into trailers to be towed by people, goats and horses.

[konomonose]

I used to do land surveying and as such we had to constantly sharpen edged tools, for trees, vines, saplings, briars, snakes, neer do wells, mad dogs and just to look like a bad ass in general. etc. To sharpen a good metal machete ie one that will take an edge following is a great method.

BTW Ontario Knife makes great machetes, used by the USMC, iirc and I do not like the kind with the full wrap around hand guard. I prefer the longer, 25"???, blade. Seems to bruise the hand. And beware machete elbow (like tennis elbow for outdoorsmen, not saying men to be sexist, ever, just sayin')

anyway, to sharpen, a work bench, tall stump, or deck rails with 90 degree top space and a hammer and 5 nails at least and inch or so long with a 1/4 inch or larger head to lock the blad down are all that is req for the setup. Drive the nails to within about 1/8 inch of flush, depending on blade thickness, as such 2 to hold the tip, one on each side about 1-1.5 inches apart such that the edge of the blade hangs over the edge of the platform, but barely. One nail near the handle end of the blade-- this nail holds one back end of the blade when sharpening one side and the other when sharpening the other side; so, it should be 1.5 to 2 inches or so in from the corner of the platfrom and equidistant to both edges.

now drive your other 2 blade tip nails. hold the handle with your gut into the nails and sharpen with the "right/correct" file, flip the blade, repeat till you have little metal foil thickness folds, peel of, test blade.

BE Careful LONG strokes pushing down edge and away from edge to protect your skin. Bush axes, bank blades, ditch blades, or whatever you call them. just crank a vice down on the handle and file away.

Will try a rough schematic, hope it posts well. please read this info and set it up and pactice PM me or post here if I need to clarify.
X = nail location

            X X
            B
            L
            A
            D
            E

            E
            D
            G
            E X            X   
HANDLE  BLADE EDGEX 
            H
            A
            N
            D
            L
            E

            GUT pressed in against handle



         

[konomonose]

well my schematic came out ok, with the desc and diagram you should be able to understand. Like I said Ontario knife  (a good heavy, thick edge taking steel) is the best, imho. Gloves will not help protect your hands much except from the roughness of the pressure of the file and they will hurt your feel for your work. wear boots, the knife can fall. Start with a coarse file and work to finer. should take only a few minutes per side to touch up or longer if this is for initial sharpening. I have used this method 100's of times, honestly and have never gotten cut even when dead tired. Just pay attention and do not get distracted from your task at hand and you should be fine, imho.

[konomonose]

Had to sharpen one of my machetes today and a bolo knife for my vine hacking( and kudzu hacking tomorrow, I hope, just for you, OpSec!!!!) anyway of course used my method, had to use a small pallet for the nails and the tailgate of my F150 for the height. I forgot to mention earlier--- have the file flat edge perpendicular to the blade and run it as such the length of the blade from the handle end to the start of the curve. In other words, the same few file teeth are doing the work along the entire length of the blade; but you can use different teeth on each stroke.  You will feel the "bite" of the file teeth in the metal and see metal curlies if you are doing it right and have a quality metal blade (like Ontario Knife about 25-30 bucks-- do not get a blade that is thin like 1/16 th inch thick--Ont Knife blades are about 1/8 inch thick and good sharpenable steel; I cannot recall if I said I like the longer blade like 20-21 inches, because you have more sharpenable steel to hold an edge during use) I had to clean the teeth of debris (file shavings) roughly once per side.
I hope you will all experiment/try this method on machetes to cement it in your mind before tshtf and it is not in your mind. Also try repairing fixing other tools and handles to refit. As I said get many files and have them ready.  You really cannot have too many.

[opsec]

I'm looking forward to the feedback. Thanks K.